Retinol vs Peptides: Which One Should You Prioritize?
Retinol vs. Peptides: The Skincare Showdown – Who Gets Your Top Spot?
Alright, let's spill the tea.
You’re standing in front of your mirror, or maybe scrolling endlessly online.
The words "retinol" and "peptides" are EVERYWHERE.
They sound fancy, promising, maybe even a little intimidating.
And the big question hangs in the air: Retinol vs. Peptides – which one deserves the prime real estate on your face?
Which one should you actually prioritize?
If you’re nodding along, feeling a tad overwhelmed, you’re in the right place.
We’re about to decode these skincare superstars, ditch the confusing jargon, and help you figure out who wins the MVP award for your unique skin.
Get ready, because your glow-up journey is about to get a serious upgrade.
The Contenders: Meet the Power Players
Before we pit them against each other, let's get properly introduced.
Knowing what they are and how they roll is key to making the right call.
Retinol: The OG Skin Transformer
Think of retinol as that legendary, slightly intense personal trainer who pushes you to your limits but delivers insane results.
It’s a derivative of Vitamin A, and it’s been a dermatologist darling for decades for a very good reason.
How Retinol Works Its Magic:
Retinol doesn’t just sit pretty on your skin’s surface. Oh no, it gets down to business.
Its main gig is to speed up cell turnover.
Imagine your skin cells are on a conveyor belt; retinol basically hits the fast-forward button.
This means old, dull, and damaged cells are shown the door more quickly, making way for fresh, new, healthy ones.
But wait, there's more! Retinol also dives deep into the dermis (the lower layer of your skin) to tell your cells to produce more collagen – that bouncy protein that keeps skin looking firm and youthful.
The Glow-Up List: Retinol’s Bragging Rights
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Wrinkle Warrior: Seriously good at softening fine lines and deeper wrinkles.
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Acne Annihilator: Helps unclog pores and reduce breakouts. A true game-changer for many.
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Texture Titan: Smooths out rough patches and improves overall skin texture.
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Pigmentation Fader: Can help lighten dark spots and even out skin tone over time.
The Catch (Because There’s Always One): The "Retinol Uglies"
Let's be real, retinol isn't always sunshine and rainbows, especially at first.
It can cause irritation, redness, dryness, and peeling, affectionately (or not so affectionately) known as the "retinol uglies" or "retinization."
It also makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, so SPF becomes your non-negotiable bestie.
Peptides: The Smart Communicators & Gentle Builders
If retinol is the intense trainer, peptides are like a team of highly specialized, super-smart coaches.
They’re much gentler, but don’t underestimate their power.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins like collagen, elastin, and keratin.
These proteins are crucial for your skin’s texture, strength, and resilience.
How Peptides Get the Job Done:
Think of peptides as tiny messengers.
They signal your skin cells to perform specific jobs.
Different peptides have different messages and, therefore, different effects.
Some tell your skin to chill out and reduce inflammation.
Others give a pep talk to your cells to build more collagen.
Some even help to relax facial muscles, kind of like a very, very mild topical Botox-like effect (manage your expectations here, though!).
The Perk Patrol: What Peptides Bring to the Party
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Collagen Boosters (Signal Peptides): Encourage your skin to produce more collagen, leading to firmer skin.
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Hydration Helpers: Some peptides can help strengthen your skin barrier, improving hydration.
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Calming Crew: Great for soothing irritated or sensitive skin.
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Expression Line Softeners (Neurotransmitter Peptides): Can help, over time, to relax the look of lines caused by muscle movement.
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Delivery Specialists (Carrier Peptides): Help deliver trace minerals to the skin, supporting enzymatic processes.
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Generally Gentle: Most skin types tolerate peptides well, making them a friendlier option for sensitive souls.
The Million-Dollar Question: Which One Should You Prioritize?
Okay, the stage is set. You know the players. Now, who gets your top vote?
The truth is, there’s no single "better" ingredient.
It all comes down to your skin goals, your skin type, and your skin’s personality.
Let's break it down by scenario:
Scenario 1: Your Main Mission is Anti-Aging (Fine Lines, Wrinkles, Loss of Firmness)
Your Priority Pick: Retinol, with Peptides as a Powerful Ally.
If you’re looking to turn back the clock or significantly slow it down, retinol is your heavy hitter.
Its proven ability to boost collagen and accelerate cell turnover makes it unparalleled for tackling visible signs of aging.
It works from the inside out to rebuild and resurface.
Why Retinol Leads:
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Decades of Data: Retinol (and its stronger prescription cousins like tretinoin) has a mountain of scientific evidence backing its anti-aging claims.
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Multi-Tasking Master: It addresses wrinkles, firmness, texture, and tone.
Peptide Power-Up:
Don't count peptides out! Signal peptides, in particular, can complement retinol beautifully by providing an additional nudge for collagen production. They can also help hydrate and support the skin barrier, which can be beneficial when using potentially drying retinol.
Scenario 2: Your Skin is a Total Drama Queen (Sensitive, Reactive, Dry, Rosacea-Prone)
Your Priority Pick: Peptides, with a Very Cautious Approach to Retinol (If At All).
If your skin freaks out at the mere mention of a new product, peptides are your gentle giants.
They offer benefits like hydration, calming, and some mild firming without the typical irritation associated with retinol.
Why Peptides Reign Supreme Here:
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Kindness First: Peptides are generally well-tolerated and less likely to cause redness, dryness, or flare-ups.
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Barrier Builders: Certain peptides can help strengthen your skin's protective barrier, which is often compromised in sensitive or dry skin.
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Soothing Saviors: Some peptides have anti-inflammatory properties, perfect for calming easily agitated skin.
The Retinol Question for Sensies:
You might be able to introduce a very low-strength retinol (like a retinyl ester) very slowly (think once a week, buffered over moisturizer). But if your skin screams "NO!", listen to it. Peptides can still offer you lovely benefits.
Scenario 3: Acne is Your Arch-Nemesis and Clogged Pores are Your Kryptonite
Your Priority Pick: Retinol is Likely Your Hero.
Retinol is a beast when it comes to acne.
Its ability to increase cell turnover helps prevent pores from getting clogged with dead skin cells and oil – the root cause of many breakouts.
It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help calm existing pimples.
Why Retinol for Acne:
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Pore Perfector: It helps keep those pores clear and less likely to form comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
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Reduces Inflammation: Can help take down the redness and swelling of active breakouts.
Peptides as Backup Singers:
While retinol tackles the active acne, peptides can help with the aftermath. Copper peptides, for example, are known for their wound-healing properties and can assist in repairing the skin and reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (those annoying dark marks left after a pimple). Anti-inflammatory peptides can also soothe irritated, acne-prone skin.
Scenario 4: You're a Skincare Newbie or Rocking Your Awesome Under-25 Skin
Your Priority Pick: Peptides as a Great Starting Point, Maybe Low-Dose Retinol for Prevention (If You're Eager).
If you’re just dipping your toes into active skincare or you're in your early twenties, your skin is likely still producing plenty of collagen.
Aggressive anti-aging isn't the immediate goal.
Why Peptides for Beginners/Younger Skin:
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Gentle Introduction: A fantastic way to start incorporating beneficial ingredients without risking irritation.
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Hydration & Glow: Focus on peptides that hydrate and give your skin a healthy radiance.
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Preventative Support: Some peptides can help protect existing collagen.
Retinol for the Young & Keen:
If you're super proactive and want to get ahead on the anti-aging game (around mid-20s is a common starting point for preventative retinol), you could consider a very low-strength retinol a couple of times a week. But honestly, peptides and religious sunscreen use are amazing at this stage.
Scenario 5: You're the Greedy Glow-Getter – You Want It ALL!
Your Priority Pick: BOTH! Learn to Make Them Play Nice.
Good news for the ambitious among us: you don't necessarily have to choose.
Retinol and peptides can be powerful partners in your skincare routine, covering a wide range of concerns.
The key is using them strategically.
Deep Dive: Retinol Real Talk – The Nitty Gritty
So, you're leaning towards retinol, or at least curious. Let's get real.
"The Retinol Uglies": Fact, Fiction, and How to Tame the Beast
Yes, the initial irritation phase is real for many. Your skin is adapting.
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Start Low and Slow: Begin with a low concentration (e.g., 0.01% to 0.03% for retinol) and use it only 1-2 times a week. Gradually increase frequency as your skin tolerates it.
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The Sandwich Method: Apply a thin layer of moisturizer, let it absorb, apply your retinol, wait, then apply another layer of moisturizer. This "buffers" the retinol and reduces irritation.
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Less is More: You only need a pea-sized amount for your entire face. Slathering it on won't make it work faster, only angrier.
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Patience, Grasshopper: It can take a few weeks (sometimes 4-6) for your skin to adjust. If irritation is severe, back off and give your skin a break.
Not All Retinoids Are Created Equal: A Quick Peek
You'll see terms like retinol, retinal (retinaldehyde), and retinyl esters.
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Retinyl Esters (e.g., Retinyl Palmitate): Gentlest, but need to convert multiple times in the skin to become active. Good for super sensitive skin or absolute beginners.
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Retinol: The most common over-the-counter form. Needs two conversions. Effective and a great starting point for most.
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Retinal (Retinaldehyde): Stronger than retinol, needs only one conversion to retinoic acid (the active form). Works faster but can be more irritating. Also has direct antibacterial properties, making it great for acne.
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Retinoic Acid (e.g., Tretinoin): Prescription-only. The most potent, most effective, but also highest irritation potential.
The key takeaway? The "closer" it is to retinoic acid, the faster and more potent it generally is, but also potentially more irritating.
Retinol Myths BUSTED!
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Myth: Retinol thins your skin.
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Truth: It actually thickens the dermis (the deeper layer where collagen lives) over time by stimulating collagen production. It might initially increase exfoliation of the outermost dead skin layer (stratum corneum), making it seem thinner, but the vital layers get stronger.
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Myth: You can't use retinol during the day.
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Truth: While many retinoids are less stable in sunlight and can make your skin photosensitive, the primary reason for nighttime use is that your skin's repair processes are more active at night. If a product is formulated for day use (often encapsulated or a gentler ester), and you're DILIGENT with high SPF sunscreen, it can be done. But PM is generally preferred.
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Myth: You'll see results overnight.
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Truth: Ha! If only. Consistent use for weeks, even months, is needed to see significant changes, especially for wrinkles.
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Deep Dive: Peptide Power Plays – Unlocking Their Potential
Peptides might seem like the quieter siblings, but they have some serious smarts.
The Peptide Party: Decoding the Different Types (Simplified!)
There are hundreds of peptides, but they generally fall into a few key categories based on what they do:
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Signal Peptides ("The Motivators"):
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Think of them as little messengers that run to your fibroblasts (collagen-making cells) and yell, "Make more collagen! And elastin! Chop chop!"
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Examples: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl).
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Why you care: More bounce, more firmness, fewer wrinkles.
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Carrier Peptides ("The Delivery Guys"):
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These peptides stabilize and deliver important trace elements, like copper or manganese, that your skin needs for things like wound healing and enzymatic processes.
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Example: Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu).
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Why you care: Can improve skin repair, elasticity, and evenness of skin tone. Often great for post-procedure or compromised skin.
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Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides ("The Chill Pills"):
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These guys try to gently interrupt the signals between nerves and facial muscles, causing a subtle relaxation of the muscles.
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The idea is to soften expression lines (like crow's feet or forehead lines) caused by repeated movements.
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Examples: Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), SYN-AKE (Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate).
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Why you care: A topical approach to smoother-looking expression lines. Think "Botox-in-a-bottle" effect, but much, much milder and temporary. Manage expectations!
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Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides ("The Protectors"):
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These peptides work by slowing down the body's natural breakdown of collagen and other proteins.
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They essentially try to put the brakes on enzymes like collagenase that degrade your precious collagen.
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Examples: Soybean-derived peptides, rice peptides, silk fibroin peptides.
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Why you care: Helps preserve the collagen you already have, keeping skin firmer for longer.
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Are Peptides Just Hype? What Science Actually Says.
There was a time when peptides were viewed with a bit more skepticism – mainly because of their size and ability to penetrate the skin effectively.
However, cosmetic science has evolved!
Formulation technology has improved, and many modern peptide products are designed for better delivery.
While retinol often has more robust, long-term clinical data for dramatic anti-aging, the research on specific peptides for specific benefits (like copper peptides for wound healing or certain signal peptides for collagen synthesis) is growing and very promising.
Many peptides shine in their ability to hydrate, soothe, and provide targeted support without irritation.
The "Can They Be Friends?" Section: Using Retinol and Peptides Together
So, can these two powerhouses share shelf space? Absolutely! In fact, they can be a dream team if you play your cards right.
Layering Like a Pro: The Dos and Don'ts
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AM/PM Split: The easiest way. Use peptides in the morning (many are great antioxidants and hydrators) and retinol at night. This avoids any potential pH conflicts (though less of an issue with modern formulations) and minimizes irritation.
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Alternating Nights: Use retinol one night, peptides the next. Great for skin that's still getting used to retinol.
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Same Routine, Smart Order (Proceed with Caution): If you must use them in the same routine (usually PM):
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Cleanse.
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Peptide serum (thinnest consistency first). Wait for it to absorb fully.
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Retinol.
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Moisturizer.
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Listen to your skin! If you notice any irritation, revert to separate routines or alternating nights. Some very gentle peptide creams can even be used after retinol as a buffer.
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Potential Pitfalls: When Good Ingredients Go Bad (Together)
The main concern isn't usually a dramatic chemical explosion, but rather increased irritation potential, especially if you're layering potent actives.
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Copper Peptides and Direct Acids/High Vitamin C: Some say to avoid using copper peptides in the exact same application as L-Ascorbic Acid (a potent form of Vitamin C) or strong direct acids (like high-concentration glycolic acid) due to potential destabilization or reduced efficacy. However, this is debated, and many modern formulas are stable. Using them at different times of day (Vit C in AM, Copper Peptides in PM) is a safe bet.
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Retinol + Too Many Other Actives: Retinol is strong. Piling on exfoliating acids, high-strength Vitamin C, and peptides all at once can overwhelm your skin barrier, leading to a red, angry mess. Keep it simple, especially when starting retinol.
Beyond the Bottle: Lifestyle Tweaks to Supercharge Your Results
Listen, even the most magical potion needs a little help from your habits.
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Sunscreen, Sunscreen, Sunscreen! This is non-negotiable, especially with retinol. SPF 30 or higher, broad-spectrum, every single day, rain or shine. It’s the #1 anti-aging product.
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Hydrate from Within: Drink your water! Dehydrated skin looks dull and emphasizes lines.
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Eat the Rainbow: A diet rich in antioxidants (fruits, veggies) supports skin health.
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Beauty Sleep is Real: Your skin repairs itself while you sleep. Aim for 7-9 hours.
"Ask the Skin Guru" - Your Burning Qs, Answered Fast!
Got a quick question? I got you.
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"I'm pregnant/breastfeeding. Retinol or Peptides?"
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Retinol (and all retinoids): BIG NO. They are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding due to risks of birth defects.
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Peptides: Generally considered safe, but always check with your doctor before using any new skincare products during pregnancy or while nursing.
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"How long until I see results? I'm impatient!"
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Retinol: For acne, maybe a few weeks. For texture, 4-8 weeks. For fine lines and deeper anti-aging, think 3-6 months of consistent use, sometimes longer.
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Peptides: For hydration and soothing, you might feel benefits quickly. For firming or line-softening, give it at least 4-12 weeks of consistent use.
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Patience is a virtue in skincare!
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"Can I use Vitamin C with retinol or peptides?"
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Vitamin C + Peptides: Usually a great combo! Vitamin C in the AM for antioxidant protection, peptides AM or PM.
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Vitamin C + Retinol: Yes, but approach with care. Both are potent. Many use Vitamin C in the AM and Retinol in the PM to avoid potential irritation and ensure each ingredient can work optimally. If your skin is super resilient, you might tolerate them together (after a patch test and slow introduction), but separating them is often wisest.
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The Final Verdict: It's Your Skin Story, You Write the Rules
So, retinol or peptides? Who gets the crown?
The most empowering answer is: it depends entirely on YOU.
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If serious anti-aging or acne is your top priority, and your skin can handle it, retinol is likely your front-runner.
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If you have sensitive skin, are new to actives, or want gentle support and hydration, peptides are your best bet.
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And if you’re an ambitious glow-getter, there’s absolutely a place for both in a well-planned routine.
Don’t just follow trends. Listen to your skin.
What is it telling you it needs right now?
Start there.
Experiment (safely!).
And remember, the best skincare routine is the one you’ll actually stick with and that makes your skin feel healthy, happy, and confident.
Now go forth and glow!